Worth the Watt: A Brief History of the Electric Car, 1830 to Present

Electric cars have been around a lot longer than today’s Tesla Motors or even the General Motors EV1 of 20 years ago. In fact, electric cars appeared long before the internal-combustion sort, and dreamers have never stopped trying to make them work both on the road and as a business proposition. A lack of historical perspective sometimes leads to misunderstandings of how things came to be as they are now, so let’s take the long view of the road that got us here. 

Start in the 1830s, with Scotland’s Robert Anderson, whose motorized carriage was built sometime between 1832 and ’39. Batteries (galvanic cells) were not yet rechargeable, so it was more parlor trick (“Look! No horse nor ox, yet it moves!”) than a transportation device. Another Scot, Robert Davidson of Aberdeen, built a prototype electric locomotive in 1837. A bigger, better version, demonstrated in 1841, could go 1.5 miles at 4 mph towing six tons. Then it needed new batteries. This impressive performance so alarmed railway workers (who saw it as a threat to their jobs tending steam engines) that they destroyed Davidson’s devil machine, which he’d named "Galvani." 

Batteries that could be recharged came along in 1859, making the electric-car idea more viable. By 1890, a Scottish-born chemist living in Des Moines, Iowa, William Morrison, applied for a patent on the electric carriage he’d built perhaps as early as 1887. It appeared in a city parade in 1888, according to the Des Moines Register. With front-wheel drive, 4 horsepower, and a reported top speed of 20 mph, it had 24 battery cells that needed recharging every 50 miles. Morrison’s self-propelled carriage was a sensation at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, which was also known as the famed “World’s Columbian Exhibition.” Morrison himself was more interested in the batteries than in mobility, but he’d sparked the imagination of other inventors.

By Kevin A.

Worth the Watt: A Brief History of the Electric Car, 1830 to Present

Electric cars have been around a lot longer than today’s Tesla Motors or even the General Motors EV1 of 20 years ago. In fact, electric cars appeared long before the internal-combustion sort, and dreamers have never stopped trying to make them work both on the road and as a business proposition. A lack of historical perspective sometimes leads to misunderstandings of how things came to be as they are now, so let’s take the long view of the road that got us here. 

Start in the 1830s, with Scotland’s Robert Anderson, whose motorized carriage was built sometime between 1832 and ’39. Batteries (galvanic cells) were not yet rechargeable, so it was more parlor trick (“Look! No horse nor ox, yet it moves!”) than a transportation device. Another Scot, Robert Davidson of Aberdeen, built a prototype electric locomotive in 1837. A bigger, better version, demonstrated in 1841, could go 1.5 miles at 4 mph towing six tons. Then it needed new batteries. This impressive performance so alarmed railway workers (who saw it as a threat to their jobs tending steam engines) that they destroyed Davidson’s devil machine, which he’d named "Galvani." 

Batteries that could be recharged came along in 1859, making the electric-car idea more viable. By 1890, a Scottish-born chemist living in Des Moines, Iowa, William Morrison, applied for a patent on the electric carriage he’d built perhaps as early as 1887. It appeared in a city parade in 1888, according to the Des Moines Register. With front-wheel drive, 4 horsepower, and a reported top speed of 20 mph, it had 24 battery cells that needed recharging every 50 miles. Morrison’s self-propelled carriage was a sensation at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, which was also known as the famed “World’s Columbian Exhibition.” Morrison himself was more interested in the batteries than in mobility, but he’d sparked the imagination of other inventors.

By Kevin A.

NAJA Car of the Year

THE Kia Rio automobile in a keenly contested competition, has beat other brands to earn the prestigious 2015 Car of the Year (COTY) Award. It got the highest number of votes across the country to top the competition.

The event, which was the annual Nigerian Automobile Journalists Association (NAJA) awards, saw the Kia Rio conquering some high-performance challengers to take the victory. The brand was adjudged to have ticked all the boxes in terms of value for money, safety, innovation, technology and dynamics.

The third generation Kia Rio’s fantastic engines, great handling, and lighter platform were adjudged the best amongst other competing brands.

In October this year, NAJA started conducting annual assessment of all selected cars that are eligible to be included in the car of the year category. All the cars went through rigorous testing, which also included driving on various Nigerian roads.

At the ceremony, which held at the Eko Hotels and Suites, NAJA’s judges revealed that the Kia Rio won because of its sophistication and fuel efficiency. Other factors considered were its handling and drivers’ involvement.

“Kia will continue to build cars that brighten people’s lives and exceed their expectations. The Kia Rio has just upped the ante once again. We aim to become a “one-and-only” brand for our customers; a brand they will choose again and again,” said Chief Commercial Officer, Kia Motors Nigeria, Sandeep Malhotra.

Intelligently designed and expertly engineered, every single detail of both the Kia Rio’s exterior and interior seems meticulously thought-out.

The Kia Rio, also dubbed as the People’s Car, is a top-of-the-segment sub-compact car featuring the engineering prowess, future-proofed safety technologies and classic design elements that ensure that they will remain remarkable for years to come.

The Rio is a solid pick for a small sedan or hatchback. It’s not quite as refined as some class-leading rivals, but it might still win you over with its inviting cabin, strong engine performance and excellent value.

It is stylish inside and out; ample standard and optional features; high-quality interior materials on EX and SX; long warranty; strong acceleration; feels bigger than it is.

“Grown-up” really would be the optimum expression to describe the Rio. Its exterior is notably European in appearance, with the sedan in particular, avoiding the awkward proportions of its competitors. And although the base LX trim is rather bare-bones, the EX and SX step things up considerably with higher-quality interior materials and near-luxury levels of equipment that are sure to make one forget that he’s in such a small car.

It comes with standard four-wheel antilock disc brakes, stability control, hill start assist, front side airbags and full-length side curtain airbags.

Overall, the Rio stays very composed when driven either gently or at whatever the engine can deliver. It handles remarkably well for a small, inexpensive hatchback with a basic strut and torsion-beam suspension and a short wheelbase, although one would appreciate some more feedback from the steering.

The interior is a little tighter on space than other subcompacts, but pleasing trims and materials and reasonably good cabin refinement keep it more cheerful than the other choices.

12 Common car maintenance mistakes

IGNORING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

It can be easy to ignore the Check Engine light. The light comes on and your car seems to be operating as it normally would and you might figure, “Well, everything seems fine, I’ll take care of it soon.” But other things come up, it gets put off, and one day your car could breakdown. As difficult as it might be to find the time to have your vehicle seen by a mechanic when that dashboard light first comes on, it really is best to have it seen as soon as possible because the longer you wait, the higher the costs could be for repairs. In other words, a little time spent having it fixed right away could save you a lot of money in the long run.

NOT CHECKING YOUR TIRE PRESSURE

It is a common mistake to forget to check the air pressure in ones tires because, from the looks of it, the tires are properly inflated. Looks can be deceiving. Even when tires appear to be properly inflated, they could be low on air. While the tires may not blow out, low tire pressure could lead to poor fuel economy so your wallet could still be affected. It is also easy for tires to lose air pressure – as easy as running over a pothole. The weather outside has a big effect on your tire pressure. Tires lose 1 to 2 lbs. of air pressure for every 10°F the temperature drops outside. Therefore, it is best to check your tire pressure regularly because you never know when it might be low. After all, the last thing you want is a flat tire and/or poor gas mileage.

IGNORING YOUR TPMS LIGHT

If your Tire Pressure Monitoring System light activates, check your tire pressure. Your TPMS light serves as a warning system informing you when one or more of your tires is deflated beyond what is considered safe by your vehicle’s manufacturer. If this light comes on while you are driving, pull over somewhere safe, preferably your closest open gas station, and verify whether your tire is losing air. If applicable, add air. Occasionally your TPMS sensor may require replacement. If your TPMS is indicating a loss of air pressure, but when you check your tire, all is well, consider TMPS sensor replacement. In addition to the aforementioned benefits of checking your tire pressure, balanced tires promote even tire wear, resulting in a longer tire life and better fuel economy.

SKIPPING OIL CHANGES

Motor oil and car engine technology has advanced so much over the years that, depending on the recommendations of your vehicle’s manufacturers, it may no longer be necessary to get an oil change every 3,000 miles – the average oil change interval is around 7,800 miles for today’s cars. This is great news because it means less time and money spent taking your vehicle for an oil change. However, this does not mean that oil changes can be skipped. Your vehicle’s engine needs motor oil to operate properly and without it, the engine seizes up and dies. In order for motor oil to keep your engine running, it can’t be too old. Case in point: if motor oil is left in an engine for too long, the oil begins to break down, which can lead to nasty deposits of sludge in your engine. Instead of lubricating and cooling the engine parts, the oil sludge can damage the parts, which is something you want to avoid at all costs. Getting regular oil changes will help to ensure a long engine life.

NEGLECTING FLUID CHECKS

It’s a common misconception that motor oil is the only fluid in the car that needs to be checked="checked" and changed. It’s true that motor oil is one of the more critical fluids in your vehicle but there are many other fluids in the car that should be checked="checked", exchanged, and/or topped off. Brake fluid, transmission fluid, engine coolant, and power steering fluid should all be checked="checked" and serviced as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Doing this helps to avoid leaks and keep your vehicle operating properly.

STILL DRIVING WHEN THE ENGINE IS OVERHEATING

Even automotive experts have admitted to being guilty of this. They also say that this is not the wisest thing to do. An engine, by nature, gets extremely hot when it runs, requiring a cooling system to avoid overheating. When that system fails (and it can happen to anyone), the vehicle needs to be stopped immediately. In this situation, the best idea is to turn the car off and call for a tow.

NOT USING FILTERS AS RECOMMENDED

Filters need to be as clean as possible in order to work optimally. Clean filters keep dirt particles and other contaminants from entering your vehicle’s fuel, engine or air conditioning systems. Dirty air filters can lead to a host of issues ranging from causing poor gas mileage to making your engine seize or wearing out system components. Have your filters changed as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer, and you’ll be glad you did.

NOT INSPECTING THE BRAKES

It’s easy to ignore that squealing noise that comes from worn-down brakes. It is easy to convince yourself that the noise is coming from another car or that there is time to spare before you check. The truth is that the brakes are one of the most important components of your car. If they are worn down or not working properly, your vehicle becomes unsafe for you and your passengers. So if you hear a squealing or grinding noise when you brake, have your brake system evaluated as soon as possible.

NOT ROTATING TIRES/NEGLECTING TO GET A WHEEL ALIGNMENT

This can be a simple thing to overlook because you can drive for quite a while without getting an alignment or rotating your tires. Although it might seem like everything is fine, having misaligned wheels can result in real issues. There is only one way to be positive that your tires are properly aligned and that is to have your vehicle's alignment checked="checked". If a wheel alignment is recommended, it is in your best interest to have it performed. As for tire rotation, most manufacturers recommend that tires be rotated every 5,000 to 10,000 miles but check your owner’s manual to make sure.

SERVICING YOUR OWN VEHICLE WITHOUT THE PROPER KNOW-HOW

The cool thing about cars these days is that they’re very computerized. There is a computer that monitors various sensors inside the car and uses those sensors to regulate things like idle speed, spark plugs, and fuel injectors, to name a few. If something goes wrong, the computer can sense it and will activate your vehicle’s Check Engine light to alert you to the fact that there is an issue. Since your vehicle is computerized (i.e. complicated), it can be tremendously difficult to fix something yourself if you don’t have the proper tools, knowledge, and diagnostic equipment. As much as it might cost to have a professional technician take a look at your car, you can rest assured that your vehicle will get serviced and/or repaired correctly.

NOT CHANGING YOUR WINDSHIELD WIPERS

Windshield wipers degrade over time. They chatter, they tear and, as a result, leave a streaky wipe behind. The trick is changing your wipers as soon as they don’t clear the windshield well. As they age, wiper blades will leave behind streaks, indicating that it is time to change them. Rain, snow, and other precipitation can severely cut down on your ability to see the road and other vehicles clearly so changing your wipers when they wear out is very important. Take the wiper blade challengeto determine whether it’s time to replace your windshield wipers.

USING HOME GLASS CLEANER TO CLEAN YOUR REAR WINDSHIELD

This is a big no-no. Most home glass cleaners use ammonia as a chief cleaning agent. Over time, ammonia will break down the heating elements in your rear windshield. The thin red lines you see are actually small wires designed to bring heat to your windshield to assist with defrosting. It is much safer to use window cleaner designed for automotive glass.

It’s true – car maintenance can sometimes get in the way of life. However, making sure that your vehicle is properly maintained when it needs to be will help to ensure that you don’t spend precious time stuck on the side of the road when you could be spending it on things you cherish. Being aware of these 12 common car maintenance mistakes will help you in the long run.

ENGINE OVERHEATING CAUSES:NORMAL TEMPERATURE RANGES AND COOLANT

Your vehicle’s cooling system is designed to keep your engine running within normal temperature ranges (typically 195 to 220? F depending on make and model). Coolant will boil at 225? F, but pressure created by the radiator cap and coolant blend ratios also help to increase the temperature that can be withstood.

COOLANT SYSTEM CAUSES

The most common cause of overheating is also the most simple, coolant. If your coolant level is too low, your vehicle’s cooling system cannot work properly. Coolant levels can drop through normal use, but if you notice significant drops in the fluid level check for coolant leaks or the possibility of a clogged radiator.  Also make sure to use the coolant ratio recommended for your vehicle. Consult your owners manual for the correct levels.

FAN, PUMP, HOSE AND THERMOSTAT FAILURES

A faulty radiator or radiator fan can cause engine overheating if proper cooling is not occurring. Additionally, when a water pump, one of the most important parts of the cooling system, malfunctions it can lead to leaks or bearing problems that can cause overheating. Hose damage and hose collapses can also play a part in inadequate cooling, as well was a stuck or faulty thermometer.

THE CONSEQUENCES OF OVERHEATING

The damaged caused by an overheated engine can be serious. Overheating can cause damage to pistons, cylinders, bearings and valves, as well as a number of other vital engine components. As a result, warning signs of overheating should never be ignored; shut down your vehicle at the first indication that your engine may be operating above normal temperatures!

ENGINE OVERHEATING PREVENTION

Avoid overheating by keeping an eye on your vehicle’s temperature gauge and coolant levels and regularly inspecting belts and hoses. Since a working radiator cap provides the pressure needed to allow for higher coolant temperatures, make sure your cap is working properly and replace it if needed. Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot!Professional coolant and radiator flushes are also available to help maintain a well functioning cooling system.

Car maintenance apps

Keeping tabs on the work you have done to your car can be a pain. I like to mark my calendar if I remember to or I set the mileage just to know when my next maintenance is due

If you're looking for a more portable option though, one that lets you see what you've had done recently so no one tries to upsell you on work you don't need, here are a few apps to try:

Road Trip (iOS) is probably one of the most robust mileage and maintenance tracking apps for iOS available. Tracking fill-ups and mileage is super-fast, as is adding maintenance history, expenses, and reminders for future work. The app has a tire log to track summer and winter wear on your tires, and supports other vehicles like boats and motorcycles. You can track as many vehicles as you like, too. The lite versiongives you a taste, but the full version will set you back $5 for the iPhone or the iPad (it's not a universal app, so you'll have to buy it twice for both platforms.)

Car Maintenance Reminder (Android) is a free app that will keep track of your fuel efficiency, cost, and mileage, but also gives you a place to track all of the maintenance and repairs you have done to your vehicle. You can add notes, costs, and of course, get notifications and reminders when you should get some work done. The free version tracks one vehicle. If you have more than one, the $3 pro version is for you.

AutoCare (iOS/Android): AutoCare has been around for a while, and does a pretty good job of tracking your vehicle's maintenance history, mileage, repair history, service expensives, and more. You can even use it to remind you when it's time to get something specific done so you won't forget. Plus, it supports multiple vehicles. It'll set you back $4 for iOS users, and $2 for Android users.

Car Minder Plus (iOS) is another good, simple app for tracking your mileage and your vehicle maintenance. You get presets for things like oil filters, air filters, belt inspections, and oil changes, and you can enter in your own maintenance work and expenses to the log to keep track of what you've had done. From there, enter in your service intervals, and the app uses simple red/yellow/green indicators to tell you when it's time to get that work done. The app will cost you $3.

aCar (Android) is free, and one of the most popular Android apps for tracking vehicle maintenance and mileage. Tracking fill-ups and mileage is quick, entering in your maintenance history and expenses is easy, and you can even enter specific notes or information about parts you prefer or that your vehicle requires. The app notifies you based on time and/or mileage when you should have work done, and supports custom notifications. aCar Pro adds in multiple languages, home screen widgets for quick access to data and logging, and connections to other popular car apps and websites, all for $6.

Whichever app suits you, it will assist you in tracking your car maintenance and tune up. We are in the mobile technology age.

Rainy Season Driving

The Rainy Season is here again.

Say hello to the cool weather, torrential rains, giant potholes, muddy roads, flash flooding and off course… the resulting mega Traffic!

Luckily, unlike last year; this year the Rainy Season started a bit later than expected. Let’s just pray that the Season doesn’t try to make up for its short duration by increasing its
intensity.

If the downpour experienced on Wednesday June 10th is a preview of things to come then we had better brace ourselves!

● Is Your Car Ready?

Is your Car Ready for the Rainy Season? Do you have Wheel Liners and Splash Guards
covering your front wheels? They can help prevent dirt, water and sand from getting
under the hood, into your headlights, air filters and fenders etc.

How about your Umbrella, is it in the car? You never know when you’ll have no choice but to dash out
into the rain.

● Check Your Tyres

Rainy season isn’t the best time to be using worn out tyres. Even brand new tyres will
have a difficult time maintaining grip.

If your tires are wearing out (check the tread depth), then now is a good time to get them replaced. Don’t forget to also keep them properly inflated!

● Windshield Wipers
This is a good time to invest in good Windshield wipers. When the rain is pouring down
heavily, good Wipers will clear the windshield in a single stroke and won’t make any
funny, irritating noises.

If you can’t afford to invest in a premium pair right now then the generic budget brands sold on the road by street hawkers will suffice.

● Check your Brakes
Get your mechanic to inspect your Braking System (Pads and Discs) to ensure they’re in
good working condition. The last thing you want is unresponsive breaks or worn out pads
in the middle of heavy rain.

A poor braking system could greatly increase your stoppage time or add a measure of uncertainty which could result in you ramming into the car in front of you or a tree at the side of the road.

● Visibility Zero
Never drive when your vision is impaired by heavy rain. If you can’t see what’s in
front of you too clearly then try to park and wait out the heavy part of the rain.

Know where the Defog button is in your car. It will help improve visibility.

● Light up the Way
It’s good practise to drive with full beam to improve your visibility whether in heavy
rain or even light rain. It will help you see the road and help other drivers see you.
It’s also a good idea to turn on your Hazard lights to help other drivers, especially
those behind you to see you better! Regularly check that your headlights, rear lights,
brake lights & turn indicators are working properly.

● Keep Your Distance!
Always keep your distance from the car ahead of you. It takes 3 times longer to brake
on wet roads than it does on dry roads. Give trucks and buses extra distance.

Never break suddenly, in case the car behind you isn’t keeping their distance or isn’t
concentrating. In light fog, light rain or nighttime, double the distance between your car and other cars to a minimum of 4 seconds.

● Slow Down!
Your stopping distance is greatly affected by the road conditions. During heavy rain,
when there’s a lot of water on the road, there is less traction between your Car’s
tyres and the road.

Rain also mixes with grime and oil on the road which can result in
skidding. Also try to avoid using your brakes whenever possible. Instead, slow down by
taking your foot off the accelerator.

If you notice yourself using the breaks often then it’s usually an indication that you’re moving too fast.

● Maximum Speed
Rainy season isn’t the time to be doing 120kmph. Limit your speed to a maximum of
60kmph, or even less as the case may be.

The slower you move, the more time you’ll have to react to a hazard, the more likely you’ll be able to break in time, and the less likely you’ll suffer from any serious injuries if you get into an accident.

● Aquaplaning
This happens when you’re driving and water forms a layer between your Car tyres and the
Road. This can lead to a loss of traction which makes your Car unresponsive to control.
Aquaplaning can result in Skidding/Drifting out of your lane or even off the road.
Avoid entering large puddles of water, instead slow down and drive around them.

● Don’t Lose Control!
If you find yourself Skidding on the Road then by all means resist the urge to
slam/pump the brakes! If you do this, what happens is your tyres will lose traction
which will make your car unresponsive to control.

Instead, apply steady pressure to your brakes to maintain traction and steer in direction of the skid and you’ll stay in control.

● Trailing
Now that you know what Aquaplaning is, one way to avoid it and ensure that your tyres
have adequate traction is to drive in the tyre trails of the Car infront
of you.

We didn’t say drive bumpertobumper! Notice the water trail left behind by the wheels of
the car in-front of you? Well these trails have less water due to displacement by the
tyres. So by driving in these tracks you’re guaranteed maximum traction.

● You Sabi the Road?

The Rainy Season is probably not the best time to be exploring new routes in a bid to beat the traffic. Instead, stick with routes you’re familiar with, you will have a good idea where all the trouble spots like potholes are and avoid them even if they are
completely submerged underwater and you can’t see them. If you must navigate go as slow as possible.

● If you must go Swimming…

Sometimes there’s no avoiding those deep puddles of water. If you have no other choice
but to cross then make sure you switch off your AC (ensures water isn’t sucked in) and
you move through at a moderate speed so that your momentum can help your tyres overcome any slippery surfaces.

● Stuck in the Mud
Make sure you carry a Tow strap in your trunk at all times in case you get stuck in mud
and need to be towed out. If you suddenly find yourself stuck in mud don’t spin your
tires at high speeds.

It generates a lot of heat which could damage your car components
and prove expensive in the long run. Instead stop, put your car in reverse and try to slowly back out.

Flooring or Pumping the throttle in slippery mud won’t give your tyres
adequate time to grip the ground, and will instead end up digging you further down into
the dirt.

● Watch Out for Pedestrians
Not everyone is fortunate enough to have a Car, especially during the Rainy Season.
Please don’t compound their shortcomings by giving them a Second Bath for the day.

Be mindful of Puddles, and if you see Pedestrians nearby slow down or navigate around the Puddles to avoid splashing muddy water on them.

Enjoy your drive.

Please wash me sir

Preserve Vehicle Value by cleaning

Keeping your car clean will significantly help preserve its overall value.

“Simply cleaning your vehicle not only fosters a sense of pride and accomplishment, but it also protects your valuable vehicle investment,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “It’s a task that takes very little money or effort, but has huge returns.”

Polishing your vehicle once every six months and washing it once a week prevents the buildup of damaging chemicals and dirt that may harm the vehicle’s finish. In addition to regular care, it is important to look for any dents, dings, scratches or cracked glass. These problems, when left unattended, can lead to more expensive repairs down the line. Frequent washing and polishing is also the best way to protect your car’s finish from the damaging effects of harsh ultraviolet rays and acid rain.

It is imperative to clean your car only with products sold specifically for cars which are specially formulated to ensure that the treatments your vehicle’s manufacturer included on the paint finish remain intact. Using harsh detergents, like dish soap, that are not intended for use of vehicle exteriors can damage those protective layers leaving your vehicle even more vulnerable to the elements than before you washed it.

 

 

6 vehicle warning smells

Certain smells could be a problem with your vehicle .
Here's a picture graph of smells to look out for.

Seven signs you need new brakes

When we talk care care and maintenance, brakes and braking is chief amongst our list. It the number one safety check for any vehicle.
So here are seven tell-tale signs you need new brakes;

Noise: screeching, grinding or clicking noises when applying the brakes.

Pulling: vehicle pulls to one side while braking.

Low Pedal:brake pedal nearly touches the floor before engaging.

Hard Pedal: must apply extreme pressure to the pedal before brakes engage.

Grabbing: brakes grab at the slightest touch to the pedal.

Vibration: brake pedal vibrates or pulses, even under normal braking conditions.

Light: brake light is illuminated on your vehicle’s dashboard.

Idling/Warming your car in the morning

To Idle or Not to Idle, That is the Question

June 10, 2015

It is that time of the year when many motorists let their vehicle “warm up” or idle before driving. In fact, today’s modern cars are ready to drive in cold temperatures without excessive idling, says the Car Care Council.

“Unless you are trying to defrost the windshield or warm the interior of your car, idling is not required for today’s vehicles,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “In most cases, idling longer than 30 seconds is unnecessary. The best way to warm up your car’s engine is to drive gently at the start. Remember, a vehicle gets zero miles per gallon when idling and the result is lower fuel economy and wasted money.”

The idea of idling before driving dates back to when cars were built with carburetors. With new fuel-injection technology, complex computer systems and thinner synthetic oils, drivers don’t need to warm up their cars before hitting the road.

According to the  US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), “When a car idles for more than 30 seconds, it has several negative effects, such as increasing air pollution unnecessarily, wasting fuel and money, and causing excessive wear or even damaging a car’s engine components, including cylinders, spark plugs, and the exhaust system. Contrary to popular belief, idling isn’t an effective way to warm up most car engines.”

How to replace a wheel safely

To save space and weight, many new cars have a punture repair kit – sealant and compressor – rather than a spare wheel.  If you don't have a spare it's a good idea to familiarise yourself with the kit provided so you'll know what to do if you do get a puncture.

If your car does have a spare it's a good idea to practice changing a wheel at home in the daylight when the weather's warm and dry. Then, if you do suffer a puncture you'll be able to cope more easily, even if it's dark, cold or wet.

Given a safe environment, the right tools and some basic knowledge, changing a wheel on any vehicle should be fairly straightforward. Check the handbook first as this might include vehicle specific advice.

Where the handbook and our advice appear to be in conflict, follow the advice in the handbook.

For your own safety Don't try to change a wheel on the hard shoulder of a motorway or at the side of a road. Turn off or pull over well away from the traffic and call for help.Don't try to change a wheel on soft, loose or uneven ground Don't try to change a wheel with passengers still in the car. Move everyone to a place of safety, well away from the vehicle and carriageway.Don't work under a car while it's raised on a jack.Don't try to use the jack anywhere other than at the specified jacking points – attaching the jack in the wrong place can cause damage to the car and/or risks it collapsing when lifted.

What you'll need, handbook - showing where to attach the jackspare wheel - with adequate tread and correctly inflated vehicle jackwheel-nut wrench with extension bar and locking wheel nut adaptor if fitted at least one wheel chock gloves – the wheel/tyre will be dirty something to kneel on – the ground will be dirty too sharp knife or cutters to remove cable ties if these are used to hold wheel trims in place torch reflective jacket and sensible/strong shoes for your own safety

Before lifting the car, Plan the job so that the vehicle is raised for the minimum amount of time.Switch off the engine and turn on the hazard lights.Apply the handbrake and engage first gear (or 'P' if an automatic).Chock the road wheel diagonally opposite the one to be replaced.Remove the spare from the boot/carrier – a carrier under the vehicle may be rusty and difficult to move.Lay the spare on the ground where it will be convenient for fitting.Remove the wheel trim (if fitted) – you may have to cut cable ties and/or lever the trim off.Place the jack in the recommended lifting point closest to the wheel to be removed. Ensure that the jack head engages correctly (as shown in the handbook) and extend the jack until it just starts to lift the car on its springs. Don't lift the car any further yet.Slacken off the wheel nuts/bolts (most turn anti–clockwise to undo) using the vehicle's wheel brace and locking wheel-nut adapter if required. (There might be a protective cover over locking wheel nuts).Keep your back straight and body weight evenly distributed on both feet. Apply effort downward and in a controlled way so that when the nut finally 'breaks' you won't lose your balance or fall over. You can achieve greater efficiency by applying controlled effort through the foot, but only if you can support your upper body.

Lifting the car

Raise the jack to lift the vehicle sufficiently so that the wheel is just clear of the ground.

Remove the slackened wheel nuts/bolts while keeping the wheel in position on the hub using a knee or toe – leave the top one until last so that both hands are free to lift the wheel away from the hub.

Fitting the spare

Fitting the spare is the reverse of the removal procedure – secure the wheel by refitting the top bolt/nut first, and tighten all the nuts by hand first in stages and in a diagonal sequence.

Don't oil the bolts/nuts before refitting them, as this will make them more likely to work lose.

Carefully lower the wheel to make contact with the ground before fully tightening the wheel nuts – again in diagonal sequence.

Stow the damaged wheel safety. Replace it in the carrier or boot well.

And finally

If the spare is a temporary-use 'skinny' spare, note any restrictions on use – they're typically limited to 50mph and should be replaced with a normal tyre as soon as possible. Some dashboard lights may come on while a space saver spare is used because systems like ABS, traction control and some automatic gearboxes can be upset by odd tyre sizes.

check/adjust the pressure in the 'new' tyre as soon as possible get the wheel nuts tightened to the correct torque figure as soon as possible replace or repair the damaged tyre as soon as possible

How to prevent major breakdowns

The most important thing you can do to reduce the risk of breakdown is to get your car serviced to the manufacturer's schedule and specification.

Beyond regular servicing the the following simple checks will help you to enjoy safe, worry-free motoring.

Tyres
Know the correct tyre pressures for your car and check them at least every two weeks using a good-quality gauge or garage air line.Check tyre tread and condition – look for cuts on sidewalls. If any one tyre needs regular top-ups, it may have a slow puncture.Don't forget to check the spare as well.

Toolkit
Check the handbook for the location of the basic toolkit for the car that should contain at least a jack and wheel removal tools.Familiarise yourself with the jacking points used to lift the car safely.If locking wheel nuts are fitted make sure that the toolkit includes the key or removal tool.

Engine oil
Check the dipstick at least every fortnight and before any long journey.Have the oil and filter changed at recommended service intervals using oil of the correct specification.High oil consumption can indicate engine problems.

Water
Check the coolant level regularly and top up as necessary – but only when the engine is cold.Have the antifreeze concentration checked before winter.Antifreeze prevents the build-up of corrosion within the cooling system as well as stopping the coolant freezing so is important all year round.

Wipers
Wiper blades wear down over time and smear the windscreen if they become worn.Replace them at least once a year for best performance.

Screenwash
Check and top up regularly – it's a legal requirement that the system works.Use a good screenwash additive through summer and winter – water alone won't clear oily road grime and freezes more readily in winter.

Windscreen
Check regularly for stone damage as this can impair vision or distract attention.Minor chips can grow and crack the glass but many can be repaired by a windscreen specialist.

Lights
Check all lights weekly. Don't forget indicators, brake and fog lights.Clean lights regularly. In bad weather wipe them over with a damp cloth during driving breaks.

Power steering
Ensure that the fluid reservoir is checked at every service, and check it yourself once a month.Top up only using the correct hydraulic fluid as advised in the car handbook.

Bodywork
Deal promptly with damage to bodywork to prevent rust setting in.Many cars have extended bodywork warranty schemes, which may require annual inspection at the dealer. Check that any previous owner has kept records up to date.

DIY Car Maintenance

Maintenance

As newer vehicles have become increasingly complex with onboard computers and high-tech gadgetry, maintenance jobs now often require a mechanic with the proper training and tools to correctly complete the task.

But there are still a few maintenance jobs that most men can do themselves on most models, and below I list three of the most accessible. It’s true that taking care of these tasks doesn’t save you very much in either time or money, but it is satisfying nonetheless and I recommend trying each job at least once, as they’ll give you a reason to look under your hood as well as a small bit of insight into how your trusted chariot works.

Change oil every 5,000 miles. Whether you do it yourself or take it to a mechanic, getting your oil changed regularly is one of the most important ways of keeping your car running smoothly.

Change air filter every 12,000 miles. This is quite possibly one of the easiest car maintenance jobs you can do yourself. Regularly changing your car’s air filter will increase fuel efficiency, prolong your engine’s life, and reduce emissions.

While changing your car’s oil comes with the hassle of finding a way to dispose of the used oil properly, no such inconvenience exists for the air filter, and doing it yourself will easily save you half the cost of having a service shop take care of it.

Rotate tires every 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Front and rear tires wear differently. Regularly rotating your tires equalizes their natural wear patterns, ensuring a smoother and safer ride. It also extends the life of your tires, which will save you money on costly replacements.

Keep Your Car Clean

Besides performing regular maintenance, another important part of taking care of your car is keeping it clean.

Wash your car regularly. Every day our cars are subjected to sun, salt, grease and grime, acid rain, smog, tree sap, dead bugs, and worst of all, the acidic compound of bird poop bombs. These things eat away at paint, and once that’s gone, they will eat at the metal in your car. While failing to wash your car won’t result in immediate damage, over time the elements will corrode your vehicle, along with its potential re-sell value.

How often should you wash your car? It depends. Location and climate are the two biggest factors in determining frequency. If you live in an area with a lot of pollution and sea salt in the air, you’ll need to wash it two or three times a month. If you live inland and in an area with little pollution, a once a month car wash will suffice. During the winter, you may need to wash your car more frequently than you do during the summer due to the snow, salt, and mud that will accumulate as you drive along icy roadways.

Don’t forget to detail your car after you wash it!

Don’t use the inside of your car as a garbage can.  The inside of your car is not a garbage can, so quit treating it like one. Get in the habit of regularly cleaning out your car so it doesn’t constantly look like a dump. Keeping your car’s interior clean and tidy can reduce stress in your life and make the driving experience more enjoyable. Also, you never know when you’ll have unexpected passengers . By keeping your car clean, you’ll never have to sheepishly say, “Sorry about the mess,” as you wipe away shards of yesterday’s QuickTrip breakfast burrito from the passenger seat.

Checking tires for wear and tear

Safety: Check Your Tires for Wear and Tear

May 26, 2015

It only takes a penny to see if your tires are worn or losing tread. Examining your tires for wear and tear, along with checking tire pressure and alignment, are essential to ensuring your vehicle’s safety on the road and helping to improve gas mileage and performance. The non-profit Car Care Council recommends that motorists be car care aware and check tire condition and pressure regularly.

“The penny test is a simple, yet effective, way to check tire tread. If you see Lincoln’s head above the tread, you are ready for new tires,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Tires are critical to a vehicle’s handling and traction, and maintaining proper pressure is vitally important to vehicle safety. Underinflated tires are under stress and will wear unevenly, causing them to need to be replaced sooner. Routinely checking tire balance and wheel alignment reduces tire wear, improves handling, and increases fuel economy.”

   

According to the Car Care Council’s popular Car Care Guide, vehicle owners should check the pressure of all tires, including the spare, on a monthly basis and more often during colder weather. In addition, the tread should be checked for uneven or irregular wear as well as cuts or bruises along sidewalls. Tires should be inflated to recommended pressure levels, rotated every 6,000 miles to promote uniform tire wear and be replaced if worn or damaged.

If the vehicle shakes or pulls to one side, it could be a sign of an alignment issue. Because uneven or accelerated tire wear may indicate an alignment problem, it’s a good idea to have the alignment checked at least once a year. Wheel balance can change as a result of normal tire wear and unbalanced wheels can cause rapid wear of shock absorbers and struts.

Piston rings replacement

ozidede

Piston Ring Replacement

Step by step guide on how to install piston rings once the piston has been removed from an automotive engine.

Difficulty Scale: 8 of 10

Step 1 - To replace piston rings the piston must be removed from the engine block and replaced (if worn.) For best results the engine block should be bored and new pistons fitted to the connecting rods which should be re-sized. Piston rods can become "out of shape" due to the extreme force they are subjected to. All piston rings are accompanied by a set of installation instructions, these instructions are used to determine the orientation of the piston ring gap. The location of this gap is an important aspect to the performance of the ring. Begin by cleaning the piston thoroughly and securing it firmly in a vise. (Do not tighten against piston, use connecting rod.)

New Engine Piston

Step 2 - Next, remove the piston rings from the box and separate them into organized piles on a clean surface, use caution as to not mix rings or turn them over. (Compression rings install one direction only.) Locate piston ring installation instructions and read completely. (Each ring manufacturer has specific instructions.)

New Piston Rings with Rod Bearings

Step 3 - Always install piston rings at their proper orientation, this helps provide a superior seal to the cylinder walls.

Piston Ring Installation Orientation Guide

Step 4 - The first piston ring to be installed is the oil separator ring. This ring is used to hold in place both oil wiper rings and is designed to allow engine oil on the cylinder walls to be removed and moved back into the oil pan via oil holes built into the piston. This ring doesn't need an installation tool.

Installing Piston Oil Separator Ring

Step 5 - Oil ring separator correctly installed.

Installed Piston Oil Separator Ring

Step 6 - Once properly installed the individual oil wiper rings are ready to be installed. These rings are unidirectional with no top or bottom unlike most compression rings.

Oil Wiper Ring Installation

Step 7 - Each oil wiper ring is held in place by the oil separation ring that is securely mounted in the piston ring groove. These oil wiper rings reside at either end of the separator and are again, unidirectional. Be sure to reference the installation guide to ensure proper placement of the ring gaps.

Completed Piston Oil Ring Set

Step 8 - Once the assembly of the oil wiper ring combination is complete double check the ring gap location as sometimes they can turn without notice while the installing the additional oil wiper ring. Be sure the oil ring is free from carbon, dirt, grease or any debris of any kind. Now we are ready to install the first compression piston ring.

Installing Second Piston Ring

Step 9 - Carefully choose the correct piston ring (the second and first piston rings are usually different from one another.) This ring could have a top and bottom and usually is shown by a small dot on the top flat part of the ring, near the gap. This ring can sometimes be installed without aid of a ring installer. Gently pry the piston ring open just far enough to fit straight over the piston. Do not bend, or swirl the ring onto the piston because it can bend the ring inhibiting its operation. As with the oil wiper rings be sure to locate the ring gap in the correct location on the piston.

Installation of the Top Compression Piston Ring

Step 10 - The top and final compression ring is installed at the top of the piston, a tool is needed to help spread the ring due to its rigid nature. Like the second ring the main compression ring must be installed with the top of the ring facing upward. If the piston rings are installed incorrectly the piston (engine) will have low compression and may burn oil. Be sure the ring gap is in its proper placement for optimum performance. Once all piston rings have been installed perform a final ring gap location inspection. Always be sure the piston rings are "free floating". Ring must be able to move freely on the piston or it will inhibit proper operation.

Completely Installed Piston Ring Set

Step 11 - Before installation, piston rings must be lubricated (oiled) this helps the piston rings "mate" to the piston and the cylinder walls. Also include wrist pin and piston skirts in the lubrication process. Repeat this process for all pistons to be installed into the engine block, once completed the pistons are ready for installation. Store assembled pistons in a clean dry area if they are not immediately used.

Lubricating Engine Piston Rings

Step 12 - Once the piston rings have been installed onto the piston clean the cylinder bore and apply a thin layer of oil onto the cylinder walls. Using a ring compressor hold the rings against the piston while using a plastic or rubber hammer to gently tap the piston into the bore. This can take some time and practice but hang in there, the first one is the most difficult.

Installing Pistons

Once new piston rings have been installed allow a break in period before subjecting the engine to full load, this will allow the rings to properly mate to the freshly machined bore. These "break in" procedures will help the engine perform to its utmost ability while controlling oil consumption.

Helpful Information

If new piston rings are installed without machine work it will make the situation worse due to the oblong wear pattern the cylinder walls produced during normal long term operations. In other words, new piston rings are perfectly round with no wear, if they are installed into an oval shaped cylinder (worn) the ring operation failure will be amplified.

An engine's piston rings are used to seal the piston to the cylinder wall during the compression stroke. When a combustion event occurs these rings are forced against the engine block cylinder walls to help contain the energy that is released. Most engine pistons contain three separate rings that perform unique tasks. The first ring or top ring is the main combustion ring that takes the brunt of the force as the piston is thrust downward. The second combustion ring acts as an overflow or secondary confinement ring that aids in the service of the first main combustion ring. The third and final ring is used to control motor oil from entering the combustion chamber and being burned as explosive gasses are ignited. This oil control ring consists of three separate pieces and must be assembled on the piston.

Piston rings typically last for the life of the motor, but because these rings are created from extremely hard and brittle metal they can break causing a failure. These failures can range from low compression, cylinder misfire, scoring of the cylinder walls and burning oil.

As an engine ages piston rings wear into the cylinder walls and eventual fail, naturally. When this condition is present it lowers the engine's compression which causes low compression, burning oil and heavy exhaust smells which is the result of an incomplete combustion process. Anytime an engine has reached its normal lifespan the engine needs to be disassembled and re-machined (rebuilt). This process is not difficult with the proper tools and instruction.

Tools and Supplies Needed

Piston ring installation toolProtective eye-wear and glovesMotor oilShop towelsSmall standard screw driver or pickNew piston ring setBest Practices

Piston rings are a very important part of the engine and should be installed with care and cleanliness.Never install new piston rings into worn cylinder walls.Keep ring gap in proper locations on the pistonNever twist compression rings when installing

Fuel Pump Replacement

Fuel Pump Replacement

Easy step by step instructions on how to replace an automotive fuel pump, though appearances will vary the process is the same on most vehicles.

Difficulty Scale: 4 of 10

Tools and Supplies Needed

Fuel siphon hoseFuel container(s) large enough to hold the amount of gas in the tank.Wrench setSocket setFuel pump replacementShop towelsProtective eyewear and clothingFuel filterFuel line removal toolFuel tank supportBegin with the vehicle safety raised in the air enough to access the fuel tank. Use jack stands for additional safety. (No smoking or open flame.)

Step 1 - Disconnect the negative battery terminal, this will avoid sparks while working with a flammable liquid. (Note: Record pre-set radio stations so they can be re-entered when the job is complete.)

Disconnecting Negative Battery Terminal

Step 2 - After the battery has been disconnected, remove the gas cap and insert a hard plastic line into the filler neck to draw the fuel out. There are a number of methods to perform this by causing a siphon. Once the gas has started flowing keep the container below the level of the tank. (Note: Gasoline and the fumes are highly flammable, so use appropriate precautions.)

Gas Siphon with Gas Can

Step 3 - Locate and remove gas tank filler neck mounting bolts.

Remove Filler Neck Mounting Bolts

Step 4 - Once the filler neck mounting bolts have been removed, locate and disconnect electrical connectors to fuel tank.

Disconnect Electrical Connectors

Step 5 - Next, locate and disconnect fuel line using a fuel line removal tool. (Note: Needed for some models such as Ford.) Fuel will leak at this point so be ready to use a fluid catch basin.

Disconnection Fuel Lines Using Removal Tool

Step 6 - After liquid fuel lines have been removed, locate and disconnect fuel vapor lines form the fuel tank.

Removing Fuel Vapor Lines

Step 7 - Some fuel vapor lines are held in place by a retainer clip. Use a small screwdriver to release and remove the clip while removing the line.

Fuel Line Retainer Clip

Step 8 - Once all fuel lines have been released from the tank, support the tank using a device. This can be done in a number of ways, a fuel tank empty weighs about 30 to 40 pounds.

Fuel Tank Support Device

Step 9 - Locate and release tank holder supports, There are two in most cases, at this point the tanks will become loose.

Release Fuel Tank Supports

Step 10 - After the tanks mounts have been removed the tank will become loose. Lower the tank and release top mounted fuel lines or electrical connectors if any.

Removing Fuel Lines and Connectors

Step 11 - Once the tank has been removed, disconnect fuel lines from the fuel pump.

Fuel Line Release Tool

Step 12 - Next, remove fuel pump mounting bolts which hold the pump to the fuel tank.

Removing Fuel Pump Mounting Bolts

Step 13 - After the mounting bolts have been removed, use a standard screwdriver to gently pry off the fuel pump cover or housing.

Cover Removed Exposing Fuel Pump

Step 14 - Next, Release the fuel pump retainer clips if any. Most models are designed with the fuel pump connected to the cover plate.

Releasing Fuel Pump Retainer Clips

Step 15 - Once the fuel pump retainer clip has been released, gently lift the pump from the fuel tank. Most pump units incorporate the fuel level sender as well.

Fuel Pump Removed

Step 16 - After the fuel pump has been removed use a flashlight to inspect the tank for debris and clean as needed. (Note: A small amount of debris is normal.)

Fuel Tank Inspection

Step 17 - Next, match the failed pump to the replacement pump, make sure all electrical and fuel line connections are the same. Clean mounting surfaces using a shop towel and carburetor cleaner. Gently lower the replacement pump into the fuel tank taking note on fuel level sender orientation.

Installing New Fuel Pump

Step 18 - Once the pump has been lowered into position press the pump into place. Use any new O ring seals or gaskets provided with the replacement pump.

New Fuel Pump Installed

Step 19 - After the fuel pump is securely in place, reinstall pump plate mounting bolts.

Reinstalling Pump Plate Mounting Bolts

Step 20 - Then, tighten the fuel pump mounting bolts using a star pattern to ensure a proper seal to the fuel tank.

Tighten Fuel Pump Mounting Bolts

After completing these steps, reverse the order to reinstall the tank back into the vehicle. It's best if a new fuel filter is installed at the time of the new fuel pump assembly. Add gas to the fuel tank before turning the ignition key, this will lubricate the pump.

Helpful Information

Some manufacturers provide an access door to service the fuel pump, be sure to research this information before beginning. To test for a fuel pump failure a fuel system pressure test must be performed. Sometimes the the driveshaft must be removed along with the fuel tank.

The automotive engine is designed to operate on a specific fuel system pressure which is vital to engine performance. To maintain a constant pressure, the fuel pumpis located in the fuel tank and is comprised of an electric motor coupled to a small internal vein style pump. Fuel pumps have a pressure relief valve that allows fuel to bypass while recalculating inside the fuel tank. Direct injection fuel pumps utilize an internal pressure regulator, while having only one liquid fuel line routed to the engine as opposed to two, (pressure and return lines.)

When the ignition key is turned the fuel pump relay engages while supplying electrical power to the pump. This relay is controlled by the main computer which must detect engine rotation before signaling the relay. When servicing a truck fuel pump there is the option to remove the bed to access the assembly.

Best Practices

Replace the fuel filter when replacing the pump, debris can be dislodged and enter the fuel filter during a pump failure.Have a fire extinguisher available.Inspect fuel pump electrical connector for burns or heated spots and replace if damaged. A burned connector can cause the pump to intermittently fail.The fuel pump is controlled by a relay, this relay should be tested to ensure proper operation.Do not remove tank unless empty or close to empty, a full gas tank is heavy and can cause injury.

Hybrid cars. How do they work?

Hybrid Car

Step by step guide on how a hybrid car works, this information pertains to all hybrid vehicles.

Step 1 - The hybrid vehicle has been in production since the introduction of automotive grade rechargeable batteries. There are several styles of hybrid vehicles with several combinations of electric and internal combustion engines.

Hybrid Car - Chevrolet Volt

Step 2 - Most hybrid vehicles feature an internal combustion engine much like an ordinary car, whereas the transmission is modified to utilize electric power.

Hybrid Engine and Transmission

Step 3 - The gear selector is similar to a conventional vehicle with the exception of a park button and battery mode.

Gear Selector

Step 4 - Hybrid vehicles are designed with a long life, quick charge batterypacks designed to produce high voltage and amperage to accommodate the electric motor.

Hybrid Battery

Step 5 - Power cables connect the battery unit to the power inverter control.

Power Cables

Step 6 - Power is supplied to the power inverter which is responsible for controlling the amount of electrical power to be used by the electric motor and other systems.

Power Inverter

Step 7 - Charging stations like this one or becoming more popular as the hybrid revolution becomes more prevalent.

Hybrid/Electric Charging Station

Helpful Information

Hybrid cars and trucks are becoming more popular as petroleum based fuels are becoming more expensive to obtain while the world supply diminishes. The two most common sources in today's hybrid cars are gasoline and electric power. A definition of "hybrid" means more than one source of power, whereas an electric or gasoline car is fully powered from one source with no alternative power. A hybrid can be comprised of hydrogen and electric, petroleum fuel and electric or any other combination imaginable.

Advancements in battery technology has made the hybrid vehicle more efficient which has enabled the automotive industry to develop their own hybrid versions. Additionally, a hybrid's brake system is regenerative, the energy normally lost through friction and heat is now directed to the batteries. Unlike the batteries of a conventional car, the battery of a hybrid car differs in the internal structure which increases the amount of energy stored.

The electrical system of a Hybrid incorporates high-speed communication buses (communication area network CAN) to facilitate a connection between the computers of the multi-layered control system.

Using a trouble code reader

Code Scan

Easy step by step instructions on how to read automotive diagnostic trouble codes, this article pertains to most vehicles built after 1996.

Difficulty Scale: 2 of 10

Begin with the vehicle on level ground, in park, with the parking brake set.

Step 1 - When a check engine or service engine soon light illuminates the computer system has detected a malfunction which indicates a repair is needed.

Check Engine Light

Step 2 - Obtain a simple code reader which are available from about $25.00. These readers are available on Amazon.

Trouble Code Reader

Step 3 - Next, locate the ALDL data link connector which is usually under the dash on the drivers side, attach the reader data connector.

Reader Connector

Step 4 - With the data connector in place, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. (Note: Do not start the engine.)

Ignition Key "ON"

Step 5 - Once the ignition power has been turned "ON", the code reader will power up and display the welcome screen.

Reader Power On

Step 6 - After the reader has powered up, follow the prompt and select "read codes".

Select Read Codes

Step 7 - Next, the reader will enter "gather codes" mode which will retrieve any codes the computer has stored.

Gathering Codes

Step 8 - Within a few minutes the reader will display trouble codes which denotes the system or sensor that has malfunctioned. In this case PO336 is a crankshaft angle sensor failure.

Retrieved Trouble Code

Step 9 - Once the codes have been displayed the reader will give an option of clearing the code which is done by pressing the "clear" button. After pushing the button the reader will erase all codes present in the computer.

Step 10 - The reader will present an option to recheck the system and give a "PASS" reading if the system detects no problems.

Pass Indicator

Step 11 - After the reader has finished, turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.

Turn Ignition Key Off

Step 12 - Next, remove the data connector from the ALDL port.

Remove Data Connector

Helpful Information

Once the "check engine" or a "service engine soon" light has illuminated the computer has detected a problem and stored one or more trouble codes. When this light is illuminated the vehicle enters into "limp mode", which means the system is not running at optimal performance. Most 1996 and newer vehicles utilize an ALDL connector port which is used to connect a reader for code retrieval. This connector is generally located on the drivers side near the foot well.

A trouble code definition chart can be used to help define the meaning of the malfunction. After repairs have been performed and codes cleared, the computer will start testing systems once the vehicle is driven. These monitors operate during normal driving conditions and can take up to 30 miles to complete. If the computer senses a problem, the check engine or service engine light will re-illuminate.

Vehicles older than 1996 use an OBD1 scanner or the use of onboard retrieval method is required to gather trouble codes.

Common Problems

If a scan has been performed and a P1000 is observed it means the computer could not complete the retrieval process.If the check engine or service engine soon light does not illuminate while the key is in the "ON" position repairs are needed such as an indicator bulb replacement.

AUTHOR

Written by Ken Lavacot

Engine oil as coolant

Oil has a higher boiling point than water, so it can be used to cool items at a temperature of 100°C or higher. However, pressurised water-cooling may also exceed 100°C.
    Oil is an electrical insulator, thus it can be used inside of or in direct contact with electrical components.
    Oil is already present as a lubricant, so no extra coolant tanks, pumps nor radiators are required (although all of these items may need to be larger than otherwise).
    Cooling water can be corrosive to the engine and must contain a rust-inhibitor, whereas oil naturally helps to prevent corrosion.
    Thus, if through a gasket failure, coolant oil should enter, say, the combustion chamber or the sump, this would be a mere inconvenience; but if coolant water should similarly leak, substantial engine damage might occur.

Disadvantages

Coolant oil may be limited to cooling objects under approximately 200°C - 300°C, otherwise the oil may degrade and even leave ashy deposits.
    Pure water may evaporate or boil, but it cannot degrade, although it may become polluted and acidic.
    Water is generally available should coolant need to be added to the system, but oil may not be.
    Unlike water, oil may be flammable.
    The specific heat of water or water/glycol is about twice that of oil, so a given volume of water may absorb more engine heat than can the same volume of oil.
    Therefore, water may be a better coolant if an engine is permanently producing large amounts of heat, making it better for high-performance or racing engines.

Oil cooling is commonly used to cool high-performance motorcycle engines that are not water-cooled. Typically, the cylinder barrel remains air-cooled in the traditional motorcycle fashion, but the cylinder head benefits from additional cooling. As there is already an oil circulation system available for lubrication, this oil is also piped to the cylinder head and used as a liquid coolant. Compared to an oil system used solely for lubrication, oil cooling requires additional oil capacity, a greater flow rate through the oil pump, and an oil cooler (or a larger cooler than normal).

If air-cooling proves sufficient for much of the running time (such as for an aero-engine in flight, or a motorcycle in motion), then oil cooling is an ideal way to cope with those times when extra cooling is needed (such as an aero-engine taxying before take-off, or a motorcycle in a city traffic jam). But if the engine is a racing engine that is always producing huge amounts of heat, water cooling may be preferable.

Air-cooled aviation engines may be subject to "shock cooling" when descending from cruising altitude prior to landing. During descent, very little power is needed, so the engine is throttled back and thereby develops much less heat than when maintaining altitude. While descending, the plane's airspeed rises, substantially increasing the rate of air-cooling the engine. These factors may cause the cylinder head to crack; but the adoption of oil-cooled cylinder heads significantly reduces or cancels the problem as the heads are now "oil-warmed".

In the 1980s, Suzuki used ts "SACS" oil-cooling system on the powerful GSXR motorcycles, but later switched to water-cooling.[1]

Splash lubrication is a rudimentary form of oil cooling. Some slow-turning early engines would have a "splashing spoon" beneath the big end of the connecting rod. This spoon would dip into sump oil and would hurl oil about, in the hope of cooling and lubricating the underside of the piston.

How to change break pads by diy

Step by step guide on how to replace front brake pads on a front wheel drive car, though appearances may vary, the process is the same on most vehicles.

Difficulty Scale: 4 of 10

Tools and Supplies Needed

Socket setWrench setShop towelsScrew driver setLarge "C" clamp or channel locksBrake fluidJack standsHydraulic floor jackBreaker bar or lug wrenchBegin with the vehicle on level ground, emergency brake set and front of vehicle lifted in the air safely using jack stands.

Step 1 - After the car has been lifted, remove the wheel cover plastic nuts or hub cap.

Removing Lug Nut Cover or Hubcap

Step 2 - Remove lug nut with lug wrench or breaker bar. Shown with air tool. (Note: Loosen lugs on ground if no air toll are used.)

Removing Lug Buts

Step 3 - After all lug nuts have been removed, grasp the tire with both hands and lift off.

Lifting Wheel from Axle Studs

Step 4 - Once the wheel has been removed, loosen the caliper bolts and remove. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.

Removing Both Caliper Mounting Bolts

Step 5 - Now, lift the brake caliper off the rotor and brake pads. Tie or secure the caliper, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed.

Removing Brake Caliper

Step 6 - Next, remove both brake pads.

Removing Brake Pads

Step 7 - Once the brake caliper has been removed, retract the caliper using a large "C" clamp or channel locks until fully depressed, use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder cap or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary.

Retracting Brake Caliper

Step 8 - Next, remove caliper bracket mounting bolts to allow the brake rotor to be replaced.

Removing Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolts

Step 9 - After the caliper mounting bracket has been removed, use side cutters (dikes) to remove assembly clips.

Removing Rotor Assembly Clips

Step 10 - Once the assembly clips have been removed the brake rotor will slide off the axle hub.

Removing Brake Rotor

Step 11 - After the brake rotor has been removed, replace it with a re-machined or new unit. Clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. The new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete, a small amount of smoke from the rotor may occur when first used. This is normal and will dissipate after the first couple of uses.

Installing New Brake Rotor

Step 12 - Next, install the caliper mounting bracket onto the spindle.

Installing Caliper Bracket

Step 13 - Un-box and inspect replacement brake pads to insure they will properly replace the old brake pads.

Inspecting New Brake Pads

Step 14 - Some brake pad applications involve anti-rattle clips which should be installed when provided.

Anti-Rattle Clips

Step 15 - Remove the old clips to install the new set.

Installing New Anti-Rattle Clips

Step 16 - Now, the new brake pads are ready for installation, be sure to install the pad with the sensor on the inboard side.

Installing Front Brake Pads

Step 17 - Before installing the brake caliper check the caliper slides by moving them in and out of the caliper mounting bracket. They should move smoothly, if not disassemble by pulling slides out to clean and lubricate.

Inspecting Caliper Slides

Step 18 - Once the brake pads have been installed, the brake caliper can be put back into place. (Note: clean and lube brake caliper slides if needed.)

Installing Brake Caliper

Step 19 - Tighten caliper bolts and double check caliper mounting bracket bolts.

Tightening Caliper Bolts

Step 20 - Re-install tire

Re-Installing Tire

Step 21 - After the tire has been re-installed add the lug nuts to hold the wheel on, and tighten. (Note: Finish tightening lug nuts once the car has been lowered onto the ground.)

Re-installing Lug Nuts

Step 22 - Re-installing hub cap or lug nut cover.

Installing Lug Nut Cover

Step 23 - After the car is back on the ground and the tires are tightened, slowly push the brake pedal down, then allow back up slowly. This operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. Do this until normal brake operation has returned (brake pedal in its normal position), This helps prevent air bubbles in the system which alleviates bleeding.

Push Brake Pedal Down Slowly

Never drive a car without normal brake pedal operation. If bleeding is needed (spongy pedal) follow normal bleeding procedures. When test driving the vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes, Note: Brake pad operation may be slightly impaired until the surfaces mate together, (about 2 miles).  Visit - Brake System Bleed

Helpful Information

Front brake pads provide up to 70% of a vehicles stopping power. In general, front brake pads wear out twice as fast as rear brake pads, roughly a 2 to 1 ratio on a standard disc-drum brake combination, this will be slightly different on a disc-disc arrangement due to the efficiency of a rear disc brake versus drums. Disc brakes have a definite braking power advantage over drum style brakes and performance is not compromised as much when wet or hot. Some disc brakes utilize cooling fins in-between the braking surfaces of the rotor to maximize cooling efficiency. 

Replacing brake rotors can vary depending on the make and model of car, two or four wheel drive, front or rear wheel drive. Always replace brake rotors with top quality or OEM (original equipment manufacturer) brake rotors, some less expensive brake rotors can squeak and may not dissipate heat or perform as well because of their inferior metal quality. The same applies to the brake pads; they should be high quality (OEM) to ensure proper performance. When a grinding brake rotor is neglected, it will cause the brake system to fail due to the separation of the rotor hat (center) from the outer web (braking surface). Additional problems the can occur include the brake pad to fall out completely or the brake caliper to blow out a piston, either of these conditions will cause brake operation failure.

A vehicles brake pads wear out at different rates depending on design, driving habits, brake pad quality, stop and go traffic and freeway conditions, etc. Hydraulic pressure is supplied to the brake caliper forcing the pads against the brake rotor causing friction to slow the vehicle. Most brake pads have some kind the sensing device that will warn if the brake pads are getting low, either a brake warning light, or a noise sensor the will create a high pitched squeal when the pads have worn down beyond manufactures recommendations. After a brake service has been performed and the car is safety on level ground, recheck the brake pedal operation, this should be done with the car running and in park to aid the power brake system. Press the brake pedal up and allow to return and check proper brake pedal operation, if proper brake pedal operation not present further inspection is required (do not drive). As the car is first driven , start slow and test the brakes, listen for any sounds that are abnormal. Observe the brake operation if any irregularities occur inspect the brake system immediately.

Best Practices

Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged.Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.Bleed the brake system after replacing brake components are replaced.Brake service usual occurs between 15,000 and 30,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions, brake pad and rotor materials used.Use high quality pads and rotors when replacing brake components.Lubricate caliper sliders if neededClean surface between the rotor and axle flange to ensure proper operation. (If debris is left between the rotor and hub bearing, it can cause the rotor to wobble on the axle causing the steering wheel to shake when the brakes are applied.)

This will help ford edge owners

http://www.fordforums.com/#/forumsite/20497/topics/245745

More car maintenance tips

WHEELS AND TYRESROTATE YOUR TYRES!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres.  Tyre rotation.

CLEAN BRAKE DUST OFF REGULARLY

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURES

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. Checking your tyre pressure.

CHECK YOUR TREAD DEPTH

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident.  Tread wear bars.

ENGINECHECK YOUR BELTS

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: Interference engines

FUEL ECONOMY

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.  Checking your tyre pressures

CHECKING YOUR OIL LEVEL

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here  Checking your oil level.

CHECKING YOUR COOLANT LEVEL

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. Engine cooling systems.

Car maintenance tips

http://www.jupitermotors.com.au/10-basic-car-care-and-maintenance-tips.htm

Tire pressure

For most vehicles,  its common to find synthetic tires installed  as they tend to be more affordable.  So the question is, what's the right tire pressure? 
I will say between 40 -45 psi for suv and sedans. But as a owner always look for the maximum psi as written on the tire. The trick is to gauge your tires 2-3 psi below stated maximum.  Eg. if max is 44psi, pressure tire up to 40-42psi. This way your tires last longer.

For owners of pontiac aztek

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bwg1qCm-9zLAMW83bC13LVNGMDQ/edit?usp=docslist_api
I uploaded this manual to assist owners of 03/04 pontiac aztek. Enjoy the assist.

Over heating on pontiac aztek

If you own a Pontiac or Chevy v6, you will observe they install similar engines, 3400sfi . It's a brittle engine and is susceptible to over heating over time. The trick is to change the head cylinder gasket after 100K plus mileage.  And the big one, change the radiator to a double cell one and bingo you solve over heating permanently on this vehicle.
Note; GM has discontinued production of the Pontiac series.

Tony

Timing chain on ford explorer

On ford explorer,  all models  before 08, i noticed the timing chain adjuster gives way at say 180k miles (pictured ).  But its an issue we can fix by getting a replacement tensioner as usually its timing is a chain rather than a belt like we have in Japanese models.

Cars and cars

A lot has been said about the suitability of American made cars on African roads . Some call them guzzlers others feel its too expensive to maintain etc .

But the fact remains that these are some of the most rugged and very much suited vehicles for our unique weather and road conditions.

I aim with this blog to provide snippets and valuable info that will help current user's and encourage potential users to buy into the American car culture. We will talk about general and car specific maintenance,  parts and where to get them at a cheaper rate and quality etc.
Also i will chip in facts about Japanese and German cars from time to time.

So stay tuned and i will be grateful for helpful input as we progress along this path.

Ozidede