Piston rings replacement

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Piston Ring Replacement

Step by step guide on how to install piston rings once the piston has been removed from an automotive engine.

Difficulty Scale: 8 of 10

Step 1 - To replace piston rings the piston must be removed from the engine block and replaced (if worn.) For best results the engine block should be bored and new pistons fitted to the connecting rods which should be re-sized. Piston rods can become "out of shape" due to the extreme force they are subjected to. All piston rings are accompanied by a set of installation instructions, these instructions are used to determine the orientation of the piston ring gap. The location of this gap is an important aspect to the performance of the ring. Begin by cleaning the piston thoroughly and securing it firmly in a vise. (Do not tighten against piston, use connecting rod.)

New Engine Piston

Step 2 - Next, remove the piston rings from the box and separate them into organized piles on a clean surface, use caution as to not mix rings or turn them over. (Compression rings install one direction only.) Locate piston ring installation instructions and read completely. (Each ring manufacturer has specific instructions.)

New Piston Rings with Rod Bearings

Step 3 - Always install piston rings at their proper orientation, this helps provide a superior seal to the cylinder walls.

Piston Ring Installation Orientation Guide

Step 4 - The first piston ring to be installed is the oil separator ring. This ring is used to hold in place both oil wiper rings and is designed to allow engine oil on the cylinder walls to be removed and moved back into the oil pan via oil holes built into the piston. This ring doesn't need an installation tool.

Installing Piston Oil Separator Ring

Step 5 - Oil ring separator correctly installed.

Installed Piston Oil Separator Ring

Step 6 - Once properly installed the individual oil wiper rings are ready to be installed. These rings are unidirectional with no top or bottom unlike most compression rings.

Oil Wiper Ring Installation

Step 7 - Each oil wiper ring is held in place by the oil separation ring that is securely mounted in the piston ring groove. These oil wiper rings reside at either end of the separator and are again, unidirectional. Be sure to reference the installation guide to ensure proper placement of the ring gaps.

Completed Piston Oil Ring Set

Step 8 - Once the assembly of the oil wiper ring combination is complete double check the ring gap location as sometimes they can turn without notice while the installing the additional oil wiper ring. Be sure the oil ring is free from carbon, dirt, grease or any debris of any kind. Now we are ready to install the first compression piston ring.

Installing Second Piston Ring

Step 9 - Carefully choose the correct piston ring (the second and first piston rings are usually different from one another.) This ring could have a top and bottom and usually is shown by a small dot on the top flat part of the ring, near the gap. This ring can sometimes be installed without aid of a ring installer. Gently pry the piston ring open just far enough to fit straight over the piston. Do not bend, or swirl the ring onto the piston because it can bend the ring inhibiting its operation. As with the oil wiper rings be sure to locate the ring gap in the correct location on the piston.

Installation of the Top Compression Piston Ring

Step 10 - The top and final compression ring is installed at the top of the piston, a tool is needed to help spread the ring due to its rigid nature. Like the second ring the main compression ring must be installed with the top of the ring facing upward. If the piston rings are installed incorrectly the piston (engine) will have low compression and may burn oil. Be sure the ring gap is in its proper placement for optimum performance. Once all piston rings have been installed perform a final ring gap location inspection. Always be sure the piston rings are "free floating". Ring must be able to move freely on the piston or it will inhibit proper operation.

Completely Installed Piston Ring Set

Step 11 - Before installation, piston rings must be lubricated (oiled) this helps the piston rings "mate" to the piston and the cylinder walls. Also include wrist pin and piston skirts in the lubrication process. Repeat this process for all pistons to be installed into the engine block, once completed the pistons are ready for installation. Store assembled pistons in a clean dry area if they are not immediately used.

Lubricating Engine Piston Rings

Step 12 - Once the piston rings have been installed onto the piston clean the cylinder bore and apply a thin layer of oil onto the cylinder walls. Using a ring compressor hold the rings against the piston while using a plastic or rubber hammer to gently tap the piston into the bore. This can take some time and practice but hang in there, the first one is the most difficult.

Installing Pistons

Once new piston rings have been installed allow a break in period before subjecting the engine to full load, this will allow the rings to properly mate to the freshly machined bore. These "break in" procedures will help the engine perform to its utmost ability while controlling oil consumption.

Helpful Information

If new piston rings are installed without machine work it will make the situation worse due to the oblong wear pattern the cylinder walls produced during normal long term operations. In other words, new piston rings are perfectly round with no wear, if they are installed into an oval shaped cylinder (worn) the ring operation failure will be amplified.

An engine's piston rings are used to seal the piston to the cylinder wall during the compression stroke. When a combustion event occurs these rings are forced against the engine block cylinder walls to help contain the energy that is released. Most engine pistons contain three separate rings that perform unique tasks. The first ring or top ring is the main combustion ring that takes the brunt of the force as the piston is thrust downward. The second combustion ring acts as an overflow or secondary confinement ring that aids in the service of the first main combustion ring. The third and final ring is used to control motor oil from entering the combustion chamber and being burned as explosive gasses are ignited. This oil control ring consists of three separate pieces and must be assembled on the piston.

Piston rings typically last for the life of the motor, but because these rings are created from extremely hard and brittle metal they can break causing a failure. These failures can range from low compression, cylinder misfire, scoring of the cylinder walls and burning oil.

As an engine ages piston rings wear into the cylinder walls and eventual fail, naturally. When this condition is present it lowers the engine's compression which causes low compression, burning oil and heavy exhaust smells which is the result of an incomplete combustion process. Anytime an engine has reached its normal lifespan the engine needs to be disassembled and re-machined (rebuilt). This process is not difficult with the proper tools and instruction.

Tools and Supplies Needed

Piston ring installation toolProtective eye-wear and glovesMotor oilShop towelsSmall standard screw driver or pickNew piston ring setBest Practices

Piston rings are a very important part of the engine and should be installed with care and cleanliness.Never install new piston rings into worn cylinder walls.Keep ring gap in proper locations on the pistonNever twist compression rings when installing

Fuel Pump Replacement

Fuel Pump Replacement

Easy step by step instructions on how to replace an automotive fuel pump, though appearances will vary the process is the same on most vehicles.

Difficulty Scale: 4 of 10

Tools and Supplies Needed

Fuel siphon hoseFuel container(s) large enough to hold the amount of gas in the tank.Wrench setSocket setFuel pump replacementShop towelsProtective eyewear and clothingFuel filterFuel line removal toolFuel tank supportBegin with the vehicle safety raised in the air enough to access the fuel tank. Use jack stands for additional safety. (No smoking or open flame.)

Step 1 - Disconnect the negative battery terminal, this will avoid sparks while working with a flammable liquid. (Note: Record pre-set radio stations so they can be re-entered when the job is complete.)

Disconnecting Negative Battery Terminal

Step 2 - After the battery has been disconnected, remove the gas cap and insert a hard plastic line into the filler neck to draw the fuel out. There are a number of methods to perform this by causing a siphon. Once the gas has started flowing keep the container below the level of the tank. (Note: Gasoline and the fumes are highly flammable, so use appropriate precautions.)

Gas Siphon with Gas Can

Step 3 - Locate and remove gas tank filler neck mounting bolts.

Remove Filler Neck Mounting Bolts

Step 4 - Once the filler neck mounting bolts have been removed, locate and disconnect electrical connectors to fuel tank.

Disconnect Electrical Connectors

Step 5 - Next, locate and disconnect fuel line using a fuel line removal tool. (Note: Needed for some models such as Ford.) Fuel will leak at this point so be ready to use a fluid catch basin.

Disconnection Fuel Lines Using Removal Tool

Step 6 - After liquid fuel lines have been removed, locate and disconnect fuel vapor lines form the fuel tank.

Removing Fuel Vapor Lines

Step 7 - Some fuel vapor lines are held in place by a retainer clip. Use a small screwdriver to release and remove the clip while removing the line.

Fuel Line Retainer Clip

Step 8 - Once all fuel lines have been released from the tank, support the tank using a device. This can be done in a number of ways, a fuel tank empty weighs about 30 to 40 pounds.

Fuel Tank Support Device

Step 9 - Locate and release tank holder supports, There are two in most cases, at this point the tanks will become loose.

Release Fuel Tank Supports

Step 10 - After the tanks mounts have been removed the tank will become loose. Lower the tank and release top mounted fuel lines or electrical connectors if any.

Removing Fuel Lines and Connectors

Step 11 - Once the tank has been removed, disconnect fuel lines from the fuel pump.

Fuel Line Release Tool

Step 12 - Next, remove fuel pump mounting bolts which hold the pump to the fuel tank.

Removing Fuel Pump Mounting Bolts

Step 13 - After the mounting bolts have been removed, use a standard screwdriver to gently pry off the fuel pump cover or housing.

Cover Removed Exposing Fuel Pump

Step 14 - Next, Release the fuel pump retainer clips if any. Most models are designed with the fuel pump connected to the cover plate.

Releasing Fuel Pump Retainer Clips

Step 15 - Once the fuel pump retainer clip has been released, gently lift the pump from the fuel tank. Most pump units incorporate the fuel level sender as well.

Fuel Pump Removed

Step 16 - After the fuel pump has been removed use a flashlight to inspect the tank for debris and clean as needed. (Note: A small amount of debris is normal.)

Fuel Tank Inspection

Step 17 - Next, match the failed pump to the replacement pump, make sure all electrical and fuel line connections are the same. Clean mounting surfaces using a shop towel and carburetor cleaner. Gently lower the replacement pump into the fuel tank taking note on fuel level sender orientation.

Installing New Fuel Pump

Step 18 - Once the pump has been lowered into position press the pump into place. Use any new O ring seals or gaskets provided with the replacement pump.

New Fuel Pump Installed

Step 19 - After the fuel pump is securely in place, reinstall pump plate mounting bolts.

Reinstalling Pump Plate Mounting Bolts

Step 20 - Then, tighten the fuel pump mounting bolts using a star pattern to ensure a proper seal to the fuel tank.

Tighten Fuel Pump Mounting Bolts

After completing these steps, reverse the order to reinstall the tank back into the vehicle. It's best if a new fuel filter is installed at the time of the new fuel pump assembly. Add gas to the fuel tank before turning the ignition key, this will lubricate the pump.

Helpful Information

Some manufacturers provide an access door to service the fuel pump, be sure to research this information before beginning. To test for a fuel pump failure a fuel system pressure test must be performed. Sometimes the the driveshaft must be removed along with the fuel tank.

The automotive engine is designed to operate on a specific fuel system pressure which is vital to engine performance. To maintain a constant pressure, the fuel pumpis located in the fuel tank and is comprised of an electric motor coupled to a small internal vein style pump. Fuel pumps have a pressure relief valve that allows fuel to bypass while recalculating inside the fuel tank. Direct injection fuel pumps utilize an internal pressure regulator, while having only one liquid fuel line routed to the engine as opposed to two, (pressure and return lines.)

When the ignition key is turned the fuel pump relay engages while supplying electrical power to the pump. This relay is controlled by the main computer which must detect engine rotation before signaling the relay. When servicing a truck fuel pump there is the option to remove the bed to access the assembly.

Best Practices

Replace the fuel filter when replacing the pump, debris can be dislodged and enter the fuel filter during a pump failure.Have a fire extinguisher available.Inspect fuel pump electrical connector for burns or heated spots and replace if damaged. A burned connector can cause the pump to intermittently fail.The fuel pump is controlled by a relay, this relay should be tested to ensure proper operation.Do not remove tank unless empty or close to empty, a full gas tank is heavy and can cause injury.

Hybrid cars. How do they work?

Hybrid Car

Step by step guide on how a hybrid car works, this information pertains to all hybrid vehicles.

Step 1 - The hybrid vehicle has been in production since the introduction of automotive grade rechargeable batteries. There are several styles of hybrid vehicles with several combinations of electric and internal combustion engines.

Hybrid Car - Chevrolet Volt

Step 2 - Most hybrid vehicles feature an internal combustion engine much like an ordinary car, whereas the transmission is modified to utilize electric power.

Hybrid Engine and Transmission

Step 3 - The gear selector is similar to a conventional vehicle with the exception of a park button and battery mode.

Gear Selector

Step 4 - Hybrid vehicles are designed with a long life, quick charge batterypacks designed to produce high voltage and amperage to accommodate the electric motor.

Hybrid Battery

Step 5 - Power cables connect the battery unit to the power inverter control.

Power Cables

Step 6 - Power is supplied to the power inverter which is responsible for controlling the amount of electrical power to be used by the electric motor and other systems.

Power Inverter

Step 7 - Charging stations like this one or becoming more popular as the hybrid revolution becomes more prevalent.

Hybrid/Electric Charging Station

Helpful Information

Hybrid cars and trucks are becoming more popular as petroleum based fuels are becoming more expensive to obtain while the world supply diminishes. The two most common sources in today's hybrid cars are gasoline and electric power. A definition of "hybrid" means more than one source of power, whereas an electric or gasoline car is fully powered from one source with no alternative power. A hybrid can be comprised of hydrogen and electric, petroleum fuel and electric or any other combination imaginable.

Advancements in battery technology has made the hybrid vehicle more efficient which has enabled the automotive industry to develop their own hybrid versions. Additionally, a hybrid's brake system is regenerative, the energy normally lost through friction and heat is now directed to the batteries. Unlike the batteries of a conventional car, the battery of a hybrid car differs in the internal structure which increases the amount of energy stored.

The electrical system of a Hybrid incorporates high-speed communication buses (communication area network CAN) to facilitate a connection between the computers of the multi-layered control system.

Using a trouble code reader

Code Scan

Easy step by step instructions on how to read automotive diagnostic trouble codes, this article pertains to most vehicles built after 1996.

Difficulty Scale: 2 of 10

Begin with the vehicle on level ground, in park, with the parking brake set.

Step 1 - When a check engine or service engine soon light illuminates the computer system has detected a malfunction which indicates a repair is needed.

Check Engine Light

Step 2 - Obtain a simple code reader which are available from about $25.00. These readers are available on Amazon.

Trouble Code Reader

Step 3 - Next, locate the ALDL data link connector which is usually under the dash on the drivers side, attach the reader data connector.

Reader Connector

Step 4 - With the data connector in place, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. (Note: Do not start the engine.)

Ignition Key "ON"

Step 5 - Once the ignition power has been turned "ON", the code reader will power up and display the welcome screen.

Reader Power On

Step 6 - After the reader has powered up, follow the prompt and select "read codes".

Select Read Codes

Step 7 - Next, the reader will enter "gather codes" mode which will retrieve any codes the computer has stored.

Gathering Codes

Step 8 - Within a few minutes the reader will display trouble codes which denotes the system or sensor that has malfunctioned. In this case PO336 is a crankshaft angle sensor failure.

Retrieved Trouble Code

Step 9 - Once the codes have been displayed the reader will give an option of clearing the code which is done by pressing the "clear" button. After pushing the button the reader will erase all codes present in the computer.

Step 10 - The reader will present an option to recheck the system and give a "PASS" reading if the system detects no problems.

Pass Indicator

Step 11 - After the reader has finished, turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.

Turn Ignition Key Off

Step 12 - Next, remove the data connector from the ALDL port.

Remove Data Connector

Helpful Information

Once the "check engine" or a "service engine soon" light has illuminated the computer has detected a problem and stored one or more trouble codes. When this light is illuminated the vehicle enters into "limp mode", which means the system is not running at optimal performance. Most 1996 and newer vehicles utilize an ALDL connector port which is used to connect a reader for code retrieval. This connector is generally located on the drivers side near the foot well.

A trouble code definition chart can be used to help define the meaning of the malfunction. After repairs have been performed and codes cleared, the computer will start testing systems once the vehicle is driven. These monitors operate during normal driving conditions and can take up to 30 miles to complete. If the computer senses a problem, the check engine or service engine light will re-illuminate.

Vehicles older than 1996 use an OBD1 scanner or the use of onboard retrieval method is required to gather trouble codes.

Common Problems

If a scan has been performed and a P1000 is observed it means the computer could not complete the retrieval process.If the check engine or service engine soon light does not illuminate while the key is in the "ON" position repairs are needed such as an indicator bulb replacement.

AUTHOR

Written by Ken Lavacot

Engine oil as coolant

Oil has a higher boiling point than water, so it can be used to cool items at a temperature of 100°C or higher. However, pressurised water-cooling may also exceed 100°C.
    Oil is an electrical insulator, thus it can be used inside of or in direct contact with electrical components.
    Oil is already present as a lubricant, so no extra coolant tanks, pumps nor radiators are required (although all of these items may need to be larger than otherwise).
    Cooling water can be corrosive to the engine and must contain a rust-inhibitor, whereas oil naturally helps to prevent corrosion.
    Thus, if through a gasket failure, coolant oil should enter, say, the combustion chamber or the sump, this would be a mere inconvenience; but if coolant water should similarly leak, substantial engine damage might occur.

Disadvantages

Coolant oil may be limited to cooling objects under approximately 200°C - 300°C, otherwise the oil may degrade and even leave ashy deposits.
    Pure water may evaporate or boil, but it cannot degrade, although it may become polluted and acidic.
    Water is generally available should coolant need to be added to the system, but oil may not be.
    Unlike water, oil may be flammable.
    The specific heat of water or water/glycol is about twice that of oil, so a given volume of water may absorb more engine heat than can the same volume of oil.
    Therefore, water may be a better coolant if an engine is permanently producing large amounts of heat, making it better for high-performance or racing engines.

Oil cooling is commonly used to cool high-performance motorcycle engines that are not water-cooled. Typically, the cylinder barrel remains air-cooled in the traditional motorcycle fashion, but the cylinder head benefits from additional cooling. As there is already an oil circulation system available for lubrication, this oil is also piped to the cylinder head and used as a liquid coolant. Compared to an oil system used solely for lubrication, oil cooling requires additional oil capacity, a greater flow rate through the oil pump, and an oil cooler (or a larger cooler than normal).

If air-cooling proves sufficient for much of the running time (such as for an aero-engine in flight, or a motorcycle in motion), then oil cooling is an ideal way to cope with those times when extra cooling is needed (such as an aero-engine taxying before take-off, or a motorcycle in a city traffic jam). But if the engine is a racing engine that is always producing huge amounts of heat, water cooling may be preferable.

Air-cooled aviation engines may be subject to "shock cooling" when descending from cruising altitude prior to landing. During descent, very little power is needed, so the engine is throttled back and thereby develops much less heat than when maintaining altitude. While descending, the plane's airspeed rises, substantially increasing the rate of air-cooling the engine. These factors may cause the cylinder head to crack; but the adoption of oil-cooled cylinder heads significantly reduces or cancels the problem as the heads are now "oil-warmed".

In the 1980s, Suzuki used ts "SACS" oil-cooling system on the powerful GSXR motorcycles, but later switched to water-cooling.[1]

Splash lubrication is a rudimentary form of oil cooling. Some slow-turning early engines would have a "splashing spoon" beneath the big end of the connecting rod. This spoon would dip into sump oil and would hurl oil about, in the hope of cooling and lubricating the underside of the piston.

How to change break pads by diy

Step by step guide on how to replace front brake pads on a front wheel drive car, though appearances may vary, the process is the same on most vehicles.

Difficulty Scale: 4 of 10

Tools and Supplies Needed

Socket setWrench setShop towelsScrew driver setLarge "C" clamp or channel locksBrake fluidJack standsHydraulic floor jackBreaker bar or lug wrenchBegin with the vehicle on level ground, emergency brake set and front of vehicle lifted in the air safely using jack stands.

Step 1 - After the car has been lifted, remove the wheel cover plastic nuts or hub cap.

Removing Lug Nut Cover or Hubcap

Step 2 - Remove lug nut with lug wrench or breaker bar. Shown with air tool. (Note: Loosen lugs on ground if no air toll are used.)

Removing Lug Buts

Step 3 - After all lug nuts have been removed, grasp the tire with both hands and lift off.

Lifting Wheel from Axle Studs

Step 4 - Once the wheel has been removed, loosen the caliper bolts and remove. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.

Removing Both Caliper Mounting Bolts

Step 5 - Now, lift the brake caliper off the rotor and brake pads. Tie or secure the caliper, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed.

Removing Brake Caliper

Step 6 - Next, remove both brake pads.

Removing Brake Pads

Step 7 - Once the brake caliper has been removed, retract the caliper using a large "C" clamp or channel locks until fully depressed, use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder cap or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary.

Retracting Brake Caliper

Step 8 - Next, remove caliper bracket mounting bolts to allow the brake rotor to be replaced.

Removing Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolts

Step 9 - After the caliper mounting bracket has been removed, use side cutters (dikes) to remove assembly clips.

Removing Rotor Assembly Clips

Step 10 - Once the assembly clips have been removed the brake rotor will slide off the axle hub.

Removing Brake Rotor

Step 11 - After the brake rotor has been removed, replace it with a re-machined or new unit. Clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. The new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete, a small amount of smoke from the rotor may occur when first used. This is normal and will dissipate after the first couple of uses.

Installing New Brake Rotor

Step 12 - Next, install the caliper mounting bracket onto the spindle.

Installing Caliper Bracket

Step 13 - Un-box and inspect replacement brake pads to insure they will properly replace the old brake pads.

Inspecting New Brake Pads

Step 14 - Some brake pad applications involve anti-rattle clips which should be installed when provided.

Anti-Rattle Clips

Step 15 - Remove the old clips to install the new set.

Installing New Anti-Rattle Clips

Step 16 - Now, the new brake pads are ready for installation, be sure to install the pad with the sensor on the inboard side.

Installing Front Brake Pads

Step 17 - Before installing the brake caliper check the caliper slides by moving them in and out of the caliper mounting bracket. They should move smoothly, if not disassemble by pulling slides out to clean and lubricate.

Inspecting Caliper Slides

Step 18 - Once the brake pads have been installed, the brake caliper can be put back into place. (Note: clean and lube brake caliper slides if needed.)

Installing Brake Caliper

Step 19 - Tighten caliper bolts and double check caliper mounting bracket bolts.

Tightening Caliper Bolts

Step 20 - Re-install tire

Re-Installing Tire

Step 21 - After the tire has been re-installed add the lug nuts to hold the wheel on, and tighten. (Note: Finish tightening lug nuts once the car has been lowered onto the ground.)

Re-installing Lug Nuts

Step 22 - Re-installing hub cap or lug nut cover.

Installing Lug Nut Cover

Step 23 - After the car is back on the ground and the tires are tightened, slowly push the brake pedal down, then allow back up slowly. This operation is forcing the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. Do this until normal brake operation has returned (brake pedal in its normal position), This helps prevent air bubbles in the system which alleviates bleeding.

Push Brake Pedal Down Slowly

Never drive a car without normal brake pedal operation. If bleeding is needed (spongy pedal) follow normal bleeding procedures. When test driving the vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes, Note: Brake pad operation may be slightly impaired until the surfaces mate together, (about 2 miles).  Visit - Brake System Bleed

Helpful Information

Front brake pads provide up to 70% of a vehicles stopping power. In general, front brake pads wear out twice as fast as rear brake pads, roughly a 2 to 1 ratio on a standard disc-drum brake combination, this will be slightly different on a disc-disc arrangement due to the efficiency of a rear disc brake versus drums. Disc brakes have a definite braking power advantage over drum style brakes and performance is not compromised as much when wet or hot. Some disc brakes utilize cooling fins in-between the braking surfaces of the rotor to maximize cooling efficiency. 

Replacing brake rotors can vary depending on the make and model of car, two or four wheel drive, front or rear wheel drive. Always replace brake rotors with top quality or OEM (original equipment manufacturer) brake rotors, some less expensive brake rotors can squeak and may not dissipate heat or perform as well because of their inferior metal quality. The same applies to the brake pads; they should be high quality (OEM) to ensure proper performance. When a grinding brake rotor is neglected, it will cause the brake system to fail due to the separation of the rotor hat (center) from the outer web (braking surface). Additional problems the can occur include the brake pad to fall out completely or the brake caliper to blow out a piston, either of these conditions will cause brake operation failure.

A vehicles brake pads wear out at different rates depending on design, driving habits, brake pad quality, stop and go traffic and freeway conditions, etc. Hydraulic pressure is supplied to the brake caliper forcing the pads against the brake rotor causing friction to slow the vehicle. Most brake pads have some kind the sensing device that will warn if the brake pads are getting low, either a brake warning light, or a noise sensor the will create a high pitched squeal when the pads have worn down beyond manufactures recommendations. After a brake service has been performed and the car is safety on level ground, recheck the brake pedal operation, this should be done with the car running and in park to aid the power brake system. Press the brake pedal up and allow to return and check proper brake pedal operation, if proper brake pedal operation not present further inspection is required (do not drive). As the car is first driven , start slow and test the brakes, listen for any sounds that are abnormal. Observe the brake operation if any irregularities occur inspect the brake system immediately.

Best Practices

Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged.Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.Bleed the brake system after replacing brake components are replaced.Brake service usual occurs between 15,000 and 30,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions, brake pad and rotor materials used.Use high quality pads and rotors when replacing brake components.Lubricate caliper sliders if neededClean surface between the rotor and axle flange to ensure proper operation. (If debris is left between the rotor and hub bearing, it can cause the rotor to wobble on the axle causing the steering wheel to shake when the brakes are applied.)

This will help ford edge owners

http://www.fordforums.com/#/forumsite/20497/topics/245745

More car maintenance tips

WHEELS AND TYRESROTATE YOUR TYRES!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres.  Tyre rotation.

CLEAN BRAKE DUST OFF REGULARLY

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURES

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. Checking your tyre pressure.

CHECK YOUR TREAD DEPTH

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident.  Tread wear bars.

ENGINECHECK YOUR BELTS

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: Interference engines

FUEL ECONOMY

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.  Checking your tyre pressures

CHECKING YOUR OIL LEVEL

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here  Checking your oil level.

CHECKING YOUR COOLANT LEVEL

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you. Engine cooling systems.

Car maintenance tips

http://www.jupitermotors.com.au/10-basic-car-care-and-maintenance-tips.htm

Tire pressure

For most vehicles,  its common to find synthetic tires installed  as they tend to be more affordable.  So the question is, what's the right tire pressure? 
I will say between 40 -45 psi for suv and sedans. But as a owner always look for the maximum psi as written on the tire. The trick is to gauge your tires 2-3 psi below stated maximum.  Eg. if max is 44psi, pressure tire up to 40-42psi. This way your tires last longer.

For owners of pontiac aztek

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bwg1qCm-9zLAMW83bC13LVNGMDQ/edit?usp=docslist_api
I uploaded this manual to assist owners of 03/04 pontiac aztek. Enjoy the assist.

Over heating on pontiac aztek

If you own a Pontiac or Chevy v6, you will observe they install similar engines, 3400sfi . It's a brittle engine and is susceptible to over heating over time. The trick is to change the head cylinder gasket after 100K plus mileage.  And the big one, change the radiator to a double cell one and bingo you solve over heating permanently on this vehicle.
Note; GM has discontinued production of the Pontiac series.

Tony

Timing chain on ford explorer

On ford explorer,  all models  before 08, i noticed the timing chain adjuster gives way at say 180k miles (pictured ).  But its an issue we can fix by getting a replacement tensioner as usually its timing is a chain rather than a belt like we have in Japanese models.

Cars and cars

A lot has been said about the suitability of American made cars on African roads . Some call them guzzlers others feel its too expensive to maintain etc .

But the fact remains that these are some of the most rugged and very much suited vehicles for our unique weather and road conditions.

I aim with this blog to provide snippets and valuable info that will help current user's and encourage potential users to buy into the American car culture. We will talk about general and car specific maintenance,  parts and where to get them at a cheaper rate and quality etc.
Also i will chip in facts about Japanese and German cars from time to time.

So stay tuned and i will be grateful for helpful input as we progress along this path.

Ozidede